Oil, Fuel, and Temperature Gauges

We replaced the stock oil, fuel, and temp gauges with 12V, 120V, and 500A gauges. The gauges were a bit snug, so we had to bore out the holes and the old plastic screw fasteners with an knife. The wiring for the new gauges had to go through the back of the gauge panel. So, we drilled a two inch hole through the back and were careful not to go through any of the delicate wires. The wires will then be go to the Kelly controller, the auxiliary battery, and the inside fuse box. We removed the glass coverings on each of the new gauges because the plastic protective covering would not snap back onto the gauge panel.

Vacuum Pump

12V/8A Vacuum Pump (the little noise maker)

Circuit Breaker

10,000V Max Circuit Breaker

We're unsure of the best way to create a coupler, spacer plate, and mounting plate. So we bought some 1/2" plywood to use as templates. We drilled bolt holes in the mounting plate to match the transmission bell housing and a two inch hole in the middle to allow for the coupler. To figure out where to drill the holes, we used old, thick motor oil leftover from our ICE and rimmed the bolt holes on the bell housing. Then we stuck the plywood onto the bell housing which created a mirror image. It sounds easier than it looks.
Here's the motor side spacer plate mated to the motor using 4 bolts. Again, we had a bit of trouble, but managed to find the holes.

Controller

24V-120V 600A Kelley Controller

Motor Arrives

Warp 9 Motor by Netgain
Transmission Bell Housing

Battery Racks

We created 6 battery racks using old bed frames found on Craigslist.com. The angle iron was perfect for supporting each 73lb battery. We cut the angle iron to the premeasured lengths, grinded off the paint, and had Bill's friend from work weld the iron together. Not bad for a total cost of $0.
We mounted 3 battery racks in the trunk which will hold 12 of our 20 batteries. We originally were going to countersink the racks and mount them directly through the bottom metal using nuts and bolts. However, the bumper shock absorbers and frame prevented us from going this route. In the end, we fastened the battery racks with nuts and bolts through the wheel well walls, and trunk supports, and to each other. It seems like a crazy idea, but those puppies aren't moving. We chose this method over welding thinking we may upgrade the batteries later and would have the option of removing the racks completely.

Undercoating

We then sprayed black rubberized undercoating into the engine compartment, underside of the hood, and trunk area to reduce noise.

Batteries

20 Trojan 145 6V 260Ah Flooded Lead Acid Batteries

Waiting for Parts

Where getting more comfortable researching electrical vehicle components and have started placing orders from the internet. Ebay is a great place to shop for the more inexpensive parts. While waiting for parts, we're researching the best possible and least expensive way to mate the motor with the transmission.

We also have to switch out the power steering rack with a manual. There are ways to tweak the power steering for our needs, but we decided against it.

Then, there's always cleaning eighteen years of dirt and grime off the vehicle. The cleaning part seems like a constant battle. As soon as I remove a piece from the vehicle, it and where it belongs needs cleaning.

I feel bad for not including a picture in this post, so here's the clutch we cut out. Sparky is a clutchless electric vehicle.